Goal: To remove the stress on the idler assembly by removing the top or drive side of the chain from the idler assembly. Removing the bottom idler wheel and rotating the assembly down accomplish this.
Parts required:
Qty
Parts
1
Bolt 5mm X 25mm
4
Washers 5mm
1
Old Style Idler Support Arm (may not be needed)
Tools required:
4mm Hex Driver (Allen)
5mm Hex Driver (Allen)
3/16 Hex Driver (Allen)
7/16 Wrench
8mm Wrench
5mm X .8mm Tap (may not be needed)
Chain Tool
Step 1:Disassembly
Remove the axle bolts from the idler assembly and remove the idler support arm from the fuselage. Carefully lay the parts out in the order they were removed.
Step 2: Reposition the idler bracket
Rotate the idler bracket down and back. This will be the new position for the bracket. The cap screw holding the bracket in place may need to be loosened to accomplish this.
Step 3: Exchange hardware
Replace the 5mm X 55mm bolt with the 5mm X 25mm bolt. Place the 4 washers next to the idler support arm.
Step 4: Reassembly
Insert the axle bolt back into the idler bracket. Install the shorter bolt through the rod end of the idler support arm and into the aft hole of the idler bracket. Be sure to reinstall the washers in the same places from which they were removed. Slide the axle bushing and spacer bushing on to the axle.
Reinstall the idler on the axle positioning the chain over the idler as shown in the picture. Reinstall the washers and cap nuts.
Rotate the idler assembly forward until chain is taught. If the bottom chain contacts the top chain, remove a link using a chain link. Do this at the cheater link shown in the picture below.
With the idler in this position, rotate the idler support arm into position and bolt to the frame. Try to adjust the idler support arm by twisting it onto the threads of the rod end until is possible to install a screw through the arm and into the boss on the frame. If there is enough adjustment skip the next paragraph.
In most cases it will be necessary to replace or modify your support arm give the proper range of adjustment for the idler bracket. If your arm is of the tubular steel type it can be adapted by adding 5mm holes to it. If your arm is of the aluminum type it will have to be replaced with the tubular steel type and adapted.
Reinstall the hardware in the arm as shown. The washers supplied with the kit are used here to space the arm away from the frame so they do not come into contact with each other. The screw will penetrate the frame boss further than it did before. If you have trouble getting the screw to go all the way in DO NOT FORCE IT, chase to hole with a 5mm X .8mm tap. You may have to install and remove the screw several times before the correct adjustment is found. Once you have found the proper adjustment, tighten all the hardware. Don’t forget the jam nut on the arm.
Step 5: Pat your self on the back
Congratulations, you have successfully completed the idler mod for your RANS Screamer. Time to go for a ride. Don’t forget to show the mod to your friends so they can marvel at your ingenuity.
